okay, i recognize that as a new yorker of a certain age, i may be spoiled and have overly high expectations of my pizza.
but the pizzas i met tonight made me so sad!
used to be you had two options in a pizzeria: sicilian (fat & square) or regular (those thin, familiar triangles). rarely did one’s pizza need reheating, as pies were baked one at a time and sold out quickly. you could walk in, slap your dollar on the counter, say one regular to stay and a small coke, get a quarter change, and in seconds there was a too-hot-to-hold wedge of melted cheese and fresh tomato and basil and oregano and dough that the pizzamaker had spun, maybe only an hour before, into a big circle over his head before patting it with flour, dotting it with mozzarella (pronounced mootzaRELL, never say the final vowel), baptizing it with homemade sauce and sliding it into the furnace.
i can’t remember the last time i witnessed this classic brooklyn pas-de-deux of baker and ingredients. i can’t remember the last time i got a slice that didn’t need to be heated up first (once, horrifically, in a microwave — this should be illegal).
and why? because of CHOICE, that’s why. forget about “plain or sicilian”, now it’s broccoli pizza, spinach pizza, veggie-slice special, tomato-and-garlic, mushroom onion. astonishingly, there is even pizza with chunks of fried breaded chicken cutlet on top and, most bizarre of all, pizza with ziti. i would like to see the sock drawer of whoever first thought to put macaroni on top of a slice of pizza. whoever he was (i doubt a woman would come up with something so flamboyantly pedestrian), he should have put a patent on it, because now every pizzeria in town has some version of it.
since there are so many kinds of pizzas to be made, they are all made ahead of time, and placed in long museumlike cases, with glass on two sides, a light above, and a guy in a dirty apron behind. (at least one thing hasn’t changed. some of those aprons look as if they hadn’t encountered a laundrymat since the days of “regular or sicilian”.)
and there they sit, wilting and congealing, macaroni hardening into brittle beige tubes, broccoli drooping and mushroom curling and so forth and sadly on. it is from among these all-but embalmed specimens that we now must choose — and even if you go for the regular (now called a “plain”) you will never get the luscious mouthfuls of fresh scalding cheese and tomato, the finger-searing crunchy crusts, the oregano up your nose so strong that you can hardly stand it.
i am anti-choice on pizza because there is now every imaginable choice but one: fresh!
unless…maybe you can tell me where to find some?














