i just returned from a several-hours long walk through london, mostly
without any special destination in mind, much of it happily lost. i’m
always lost in unfamiliar cities, you will recognize me as the woman
struggling to read a map by streetlight. my father always says “turn me
around three times and i’m lost”, a gene that i inherited without
dilution, but which always made me wonder how he survived 20 years
driving an NYPD squad car. i guess it helped that he patrolled only
coney island, the neighborhood where he was born and raised.
i
walked through covent garden market past musicians and jugglers and
apparently homeless wall-sitters. i climbed up enclosed stairwells and
walked through tunnels that were astonishing in that they did not reek
of piss. smokers must be eating their butts because, with the exception
of the entranceway to waterloo station, i haven’t seen a single
half-smoked cigarette on the ground. though trashbins are small, few,
and far between, all of them seem to be empty — on a sunday night! do
they actually collect trash on sunday in london?
there’s always
a nonstop conversation going on inside the multitrack studio of my
brain, and tonight’s went something like this: no wonder the world
hates americans so much, we are so loud, we are so dirty, we don’t make
way for people to pass us on the street… after a while i had to admit
that i wasn’t really talking about americans, i was talking about new
yorkers. new york city is all i know, the only place i’ve ever lived,
and every other place for me is measured by that one-of-a-kind
yardstick.
whenever i travel outside the states i am struck by
the absence of car horns, neon blimking signs, screaming street vendors
and omnipresent advertising devices. here, blank stone walls are
allowed to remain naked, beautiful in their years-long patina. the
windows of empty shops are not papered with posters for upcoming shows.
i haven’t seen a single cop (i am too self-conscious to refer to them
as “bobbies” — maybe after i meet one.) i haven’t been down in the
tube yet, but i’m pretty sure they won’t be patrolled by guardsmen with
machine guns, as has recently been instituted at home. there was a tape
loop playing outside the waterloo tube stop: “Due to a reported
emergency, would all passengers please leave the station.” outside, a
squad of men in orange fluorescent vests lingered, apparently awaiting
some instruction. no police, no flock of gawkers asking for details, no
Fox 5 news channel mannikin preening in front of a camera and
speculating on what the problem might be. everyone just went about
their business, seeming in no particular hurry to get past the
gated-shut station entrance. maybe this type of thing is common, and no
one wastes their energy on worrying about it.
a young man stood
outside a kensington bar with a young woman, smoking, his half-empty
wineglass resting on a ledge. in my town, even if you manage to sneak
that glass past the ever-watchful eyes of the ticket-fearing bartender,
there’d be a cop on you in a minute, writing a ticket, emptying your
pockets, running a warrant check. it’s so uncivilized, all that
regulation and enforcement, it makes you watch your back all the time.
i can’t walk past a police officer in NYC without tensing up, even when
i haven’t done, and aren’t doing, anything wrong. that kind of energy
does not seem present here, and one reason it might be that harmless
things like enjoying a smoke with your wine outside the pub haven’t
been outlawed.
and of course i am grateful to any city that not
only offers public rest rooms, but calls them what they are: toilets!
yes, it’s a toilet i’m looking for, not a room to “rest” in.. visitors
to NYC are astonished that we don’t have these, and i’m always ashamed
to admit that when a tourist inquires where one can be found. of course
i understand why they don’t exist at home: even the semi-private
toilets in restaurants and bars are often used as drug and feelie
stops, public toilets would quickly become the province of the
homeless, the dangerous, and the need-to-sleep-it-offers. the point we
miss, though, is that we’ve created the environment which makes such
results inevitable. we can change that, if we focus on the right
things. unlikely to happen right now, what with the climate spinning
out of control, the economy in shambles, the war dragging on… maybe
someday, if we manage to survive all the rest..
back in my tiny,
cozy, comfortable hotel room, heavy-legged and tired out from a
sleepless night on the airplane and a long day of walking, i can say
that i’ve already fallen half in love with london. i don’t think
falling the other half will take very long, either.
















